ESU Horses

It is very common to see riders being taught to turn their horse by simply “pulling the left or right rein.”
However, riding with two reins is the very foundation of correct riding.

If your horse reacts to the shortening of one rein by turning in that direction, how will you later explain what flexion is? Flexion is also achieved by taking up a rein. As a result, movements such as leg-yield, shoulder-in, and other lateral work will remain unavailable to you — or you will end up pulling on your horse’s mouth, trying to drag it into the desired direction with a bent neck while nudging its side with your heel. (We’ll talk more about this when we discuss flexion.)

And what about turns with counter-flexion? What will you do then?
Remember, our goal is to achieve light, almost invisible aids and refined communication.

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What Happens When You Pull on One Rein

Let’s look at what actually happens when you pull your horse with one rein.

1. You block the movement of the shoulder.
   By pulling the rein, you bring the horse’s shoulder backward — while the horse itself is moving forward. This immediately disrupts the rhythm.

2. The horse turns on the forehand instead of through the body.
   The hindquarters swing out, the haunches lag behind, and at faster gaits the horse may even lose balance and fall to the side.
   In a correct turn, the horse should bend through its body and bring the inside hind leg underneath the body to maintain balance and unity of movement.

3. You lose the possibility of correct flexion and contact.
   All those important exercises we mentioned become impossible to perform correctly.

So how do we tell the horse that we want to turn, if not by using our hands?

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A Simple Left Turn (Without Flexion)

Let’s analyze a simple left turn without asking for flexion.

You’re riding in a straight line, with even contact on both reins.
These two reins, applying equal pressure to the corners of the horse’s mouth, create a “corridor” through which you ride your horse forward.

To turn, all you need to do is shift the corridor.

You turn your torso — keeping your shoulders parallel to the horse’s shoulders — but without increasing pressure on either rein.
Your arms follow your body naturally to the left, remaining soft and passive; you do not pull the inside rein.

The inside (left) leg at the girth asks the horse to bend through its body,
while the outside (right) leg prevents the hindquarters from swinging out, ensuring that the haunches follow the shoulders.

You will feel the horse come more firmly into the outside (right) rein, but you don’t give it away — both hands remain steady, with quiet wrists.

And that’s all.

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The Result

Your horse will now begin to listen to your body, not just your hands.
It will stop turning in response to rein pressure alone, and you can confidently move on to working on flexion and more advanced lateral exercises.

Participating in tournaments is not only about demonstrating skill but also about testing discipline, attention to detail, and the level of readiness of both rider and horse. To perform confidently and with dignity, it’s important to prepare every piece of equipment in advance. No small detail should distract you from the main goal — harmonious and effective work with your horse in the arena or on the course.

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Rider’s Competition Outfit: The Essential Minimum

As a coach, I advise my students to prepare their basic set well in advance — not the day before the start, but at least a week ahead. This allows time to test everything during training and make replacements or adjustments if needed. Ideally, every item should be tried in action.

1. White Breeches

White breeches are the standard for dressage, show jumping, and eventing. Choose models with an anatomical cut, high waist, and reinforced knee areas. They should be comfortable, non-chafing, and allow full freedom of movement.

2. Shirt or Show Blouse

The best choice is a model with a stand-up collar and short sleeves — breathable, quick-drying, and wrinkle-resistant. White remains the classic color that emphasizes posture and complies with tournament dress codes.

3. Stock Tie or Tie

A required element for dressage. It completes the look, adds neatness, and underlines a professional attitude. The stock tie should be neatly fastened and can be complemented with a pin or brooch.

4. Riding Jacket (Show Coat)

The show coat is the rider’s calling card. It must fit perfectly, not restrict movement, and match the competition style. Dark tones are traditional for dressage; some color variations are allowed in show jumping. The key principles are restraint, neatness, and comfort.

5. Helmet

No compromises here. The helmet must be safety-certified, fit perfectly, and be in good condition. Always check the straps, inner lining, and shell for damage before use.

6. Gloves

Choose gloves that provide sensitive contact with the reins. They shouldn’t slip or restrict finger movement. Black gloves are universal; white ones are more common in dressage.

7. Hair Accessories

For riders with long hair, a hairnet or clip is a must. It’s not only about appearance but also safety, preventing any distractions during the performance.

8. Spur Straps

If you use spurs, the straps should be secure, well-fitted, and non-chafing. Quality leather and durable fittings are a mark of professionalism.

9. Sports Underwear

Proper underwear is crucial for comfort. A seamless top that allows easy breathing, doesn’t press or restrict movement, helps maintain good posture and confidence during your ride.

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Organizing Your Gear: A Professional Approach

I recommend preparing two separate packing options:

• A garment bag for your show clothes — jacket, breeches, and shirt — to keep them clean and wrinkle-free.

• A functional sports bag for everything else: helmet, gloves, spurs, spare shirt, hygiene items, and personal belongings.

It’s also helpful to make a checklist — even experienced riders sometimes forget small things like gloves or spurs due to pre-show nerves.

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Conclusion

Preparing for a competition is not only physical work but also an organizational process. A clear system and attention to detail are key to calmness before the start and focus during the performance. Remember: a well-prepared kit is the first step toward a successful result.

If you need a personalized consultation on equipment selection or gear inspection before your start, feel free to reach out.

Let’s look at the most common scenarios of how cooperation between a horse owner and a lessee usually works — and what it looks like from both sides.

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The Owner’s Perspective

At first, this person may have been just a regular rider or enthusiast who learned to ride and decided to try themselves in sport. Acting thoughtfully — often on their trainer’s advice — they realize that real progress requires having their own horse. Eventually, they buy one — young or experienced — their new four-legged friend.
The joy is boundless: they buy the best for the horse, care for it lovingly, and it quickly becomes part of the family. New responsibilities follow — finding the right stable, choosing a saddle, planning the competition season. But challenges arise too: lack of good veterinarians, feed or bedding issues, rising stable costs, misunderstandings with trainers or grooms. When the horse suddenly gets sick, the owner has to become a “junior vet,” holding the IV in one hand and the phone in the other if no help is nearby. They learn to recognize good shoeing, the cost of treating tendons, what good footing means, and who can be trusted with training — doing everything possible to keep their horse well. Then comes the “day X.”
Financial difficulties, business trips, studies, or personal circumstances make the owner consider selling or leasing the horse. Leasing seems like a reasonable option: it eases the financial burden, maybe even brings some income while the horse continues to work. Tournament results can increase the horse’s value, and the lessee may become a potential buyer — an ideal scenario. But reality can be different. After active competition, the horse may return injured, and the lessee simply moves on to another horse. The owner ends up breaking even at best, or deep in debt from treatment costs. Sometimes the horse can no longer compete at all. A sick horse won’t sell — and financial stress comes together with emotional pain.

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The Lessee’s Perspective

Most riders reach a point where they realize: to truly progress, they need a horse that trains exclusively with them — whether owned or leased. Many are afraid of the full responsibility that comes with ownership, so leasing seems like the better choice. You can stop anytime without worrying about selling or paying for costly treatment — that’s the owner’s problem. You can ride one horse today, another tomorrow, or even take a break and go on vacation. However, leasing has its downsides.
First, a top-quality horse is rarely available for lease — and if it is, it either has issues or costs so much that after a year, you could’ve bought your own.
Second, the owner may interfere — disagreeing with your trainer, your stable choice, or training routine — after all, it’s their property.
Third, no matter how much time and effort you invest, the owner can take the horse back at any moment. You may spend money and energy, only for the horse to be sold or leased to someone else. So who wins this game? Hard to say. The owner takes the bigger risks — financially and emotionally. A horse worth €20,000 yesterday may be worth nothing tomorrow.

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If You Decide to Lease Out Your Horse

There are three main approaches:

Keep control and train the horse yourself. Then you have no one to blame but yourself if something goes wrong.

Lease only to people you fully trust — a trainer or close friends. But remember: if issues arise, even strong relationships can break.

The legally safe option: Sign a lease agreement stating that the lessee is financially responsible for the horse’s health and must return it in the same condition. If the lessee is responsible, there will be no problems. The contract should include compensation for veterinary treatment and payment for downtime while the horse cannot work. If the person refuses to sign — don’t lease the horse.

Remember: any transportation, intensive training, or simple mistake can lead even to a horse’s death. That’s why the contract must include an insurance amount equal to the horse’s full value. Without a contract, you’ll only face new problems. Ask yourself: is it worth it? Sometimes it’s better to sell the horse — painful as that may be — than to later regret your own carelessness.

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